Overview
Hidden deep within the Rajkandi Reserve Forest in the Moulvibazar district, Ham Ham (also known as Cheetah Falls) is one of Bangladesh’s most secluded and powerful waterfalls. Reaching the falls requires a rigorous trek through dense tropical rainforest, involving steep muddy inclines and wading through knee-deep streams. The journey is an immersive experience in biodiversity, where the air is thick with the scent of wild vegetation and the sounds of exotic birds and primates echoing through the canopy.
Upon arrival, the sight of the water plunging approximately 160 feet down a sheer rock face into a natural pool is breathtaking. The mist created by the force of the water provides a cooling respite from the humid jungle heat. Unlike more accessible tourist spots, Ham Ham offers a raw, unfiltered connection with nature, rewarding those who endure the challenging three-hour hike with a sense of isolation and tranquility rarely found elsewhere in the region.
History & context
Ham Ham remained largely unknown to the general public until its 'discovery' by local hikers around 2010. Geographically, it is part of the Indo-Burma biodiversity hotspot, characterized by its hilly terrain and evergreen forests. The area is home to diverse wildlife, including various species of deer, wild boar, and several types of monkeys. Culturally, the surrounding hills are inhabited by indigenous communities, such as the Tripura and Monipuri people, who have lived in harmony with the Rajkandi forest for generations, utilizing the land for traditional agriculture and foraging.
Getting there
Take a bus or train from Dhaka to Sreemangal. From Sreemangal, hire a local jeep (Chander Gari) or a CNG auto-rickshaw to reach Kolabon Para, the village at the edge of the forest. From there, you must proceed on foot with a local guide.
Travel tips
- Hire a local guide at Kolabon Para; the forest trails are confusing and easy to lose.
- Wear high-grip trekking shoes and carry a bamboo stick for stability on muddy slopes.
- Apply salt or tobacco leaf juice to your legs to deter leeches, which are abundant during the rains.
- Pack light but carry enough drinking water and energy snacks as there are no shops inside the forest.
- Start your trek early in the morning to ensure you exit the forest before sunset.
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